Prague is made up of a cluster of neighbourhoods, each with unique characteristics and edgier than the next. A city overpopulated by travellers and locals alike, you won’t need to search far for a great jazz night out.
Prague Spring by Simon Mawer is a book that inspired me to choose Prague as a weekend European destination.
The musical and artistic culture of Prague precedes the times of the iron curtain. Then music was escapism in its purist form but the essence of this devoted love to the musical scene has not been lost within the Czech capital.
By day you have medieval streets, a magnificent castle and array of architecture deep cemented in history. The quieter neighbourhoods provide old age charm, while the centre of Prague around the medieval Astronomical clock is a bustle of tourists where locals hustle.
Art is prevalent in all its forms, from the Mucha Museum (dedicated to my newfound favourite artist Alphonse Mucha), the city shying away from atop Prague Castle hill to the renowned jazz bars at night.
*As a side note, the Mucha Museum is now open for private tours during the pandemic at only 190 CZK*
Here are my favourite jazz bars we frequented during a weekend trip. We went to a jazz bar a night, each located somewhere exciting and different. In a basement, on a dock and on the river in a boat.
AghaRTA Jazz Club
Short walking distance from Prague’s Old Town Square you will find AghaRTA Jazz Centrum. There’s nondescript door, unless the crowd is already queuing up. The inside is adorned with posters of upcoming shows and information on past performers.
Head down the flight of stairs to this underground jazz club. The basement level dates back to the 14th century and there are seats under alcoves, against the walls and right to the front where the stage is. Each year during October and November, the club hosts the AghaRTA Jazz Festival and I had planned my Prague weekend in November accordingly.
This Jazz club also owns and operates the jazz record label ARTA Records and you can have a browse of the shop which is also a cloak room – all jackets, coats and bulky items have to go in here due to the intimacy of spacing for seats.
People of Prague
You never know who you could be sharing your table with. At our table a couple joined us, a Czech woman and her Norwegian on-off-sometimes partner whenever he was visiting. She spoke little English but made up for it with big hand gestures and snippets of stories about her daughter, boozy nights and the particular band that was playing.
She was loud and vivacious, the ice clinking in her glass as the amber liquid came dangerously close to the edge, whenever she gestured wildly during moments of applause. Her ringlets of black hair bouncing as enigmatically as her glass and the Madfinger band.
The intensity with which she enjoyed the bursts of music from each individual instrument in the quartet was contagious. Her enthusiasm spreading across the crowd. We snuck away during a break because I couldn’t see an end to her beautiful madness.
AghaRTA Jazz Centrum, Železná 16, Prague, Czech Republic,
Jazz Dock
As obvious in its name, head to the local dock, you can walk here or take a tram like I did depending on your location.
In a contemporary glass building you will find just as contemporary jazz bands. I saw the Jazz Dock Orchestra all seated at the furthest end of the bar, chairs set-out at close proximity around tables and the late comers gathered, enjoying a different perspective. The grand piano set was my favourite.
Jazz Dock opened its doors as early as 2009 along the banks of the Vltava River. The interior is minimalistic and stylish with a futuristic theme. The extensive cocktail list was my favourite and I started with Allen’s Coffee Martini and soon led to unheard of but delicious concoctions like Jardin de la Vie, Bohemian Smash (love an egg white softening) and Levander Touch (Beefeater gin in full force).
I experienced their local contemporary Jazz Dock Orchestra but they also host international talents. This had to be one of my favourite performances of all time. The fluidity with which the entire band moved and the solo piece on the grand piano was mesmerising. Watching the pianist’s fingers pound the keys was hypnotic. His hands didn’t glide across serenely more so made his mark during his set in this wider piece that involved so many other instruments. At times others joined in, a string and bow here, a flute and trumpet there, the perfect accompaniments.
People of Prague
A gentleman and his family were sitting on the table across from us and while his wife sipped red wine, he took notes in an old weathered journal. Forehead wrinkled, ears perked and eyes flitting from the page to the band. I watched him as much as I watched the band.
There’s also a rooftop café and outdoor dock decking to enjoy jazz. I didn’t have the chance to see these but the Jazz Dock also showcases documentaries and films relating to jazz.
We booked the concert we attended in the morning and luckily it wasn’t sold out. Seat reservations aren’t necessary but if it’s your first time, or you’re wearing high-heeled shoes, I recommend reserving a seat at the bar.
Jazz Dock, Janáčkovo nábřeži 2, Prague, Czech Republic,
Jazz Boat
If you’re an enthusiast for a decent hearty Czech meal, which is easily found in the many breweries and ale houses but you want music, get yourself on the Jazz Boat. Aptly named and hard to miss its neon blue sign, you’ll be in for a night of classical jazz on a boat gracing the Vltava River.
Here you’ll encounter an experience for all of your senses. Eat from their delicious set menu, I chose the grilled salmon steak with potatoes au gratin and their house wine. Watching locally based Marta Kloučková showcase her voice, the first time I heard vocals with jazz during a show. You can watch the city float by at window or centre seats.
This unforgettable experience was a great way to end the weekend trip in Prague. And it was made even better by the wait staff, making it a stand-out occasion.
Jazz Boat, Gate 5, Cechuv Bridge, Prague, Czech Republic
Other well-known venues:
Reduta Jazz Club, Jazz & Blues Club Ungelt, Jazz Republic, Jazz Time, The Loop Jazz Club, U Malého Glena
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